On week 253 we would like to talk about Paula Begoun. If you are the kind of person that likes to know what is in the ingredients of what you eat, use on your skin or anywhere on you or family members body, you would love to meet Paula Begoun. She has a site where you can find out what the ingredients of most of the products on the market contain.

I personally like to know what the cosmetic industry says is really what they say it is or if I can avoid harsh chemicals that after time and time of usage may be working against a bigger picture.

She is very accurate and has lots of integrity, let’s read what she has to say, and if you need to check a product you can use the links we provided and get your own answers and enjoy the whole site.

Have fun and share , don’t forget to like us in Social media. If you do it makes a huge difference  in the world of Blogs and popularity to have sponsors, thank you for your help from all of us at isabelsbeautyblog.com.

According to http://personalcaretruth.com/experts/paula-begoun/

Great site of information, it is a must!

Who is Paula?

Paula Begoun is the creator and innovative force behind Paula’s Choice skin care and cosmetics.  Her informative website, that includes reports on skin care and links to video demos, is Cosmetics Cop.  She is the author of 18 best-selling books including Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Blue Eyeshadow Should Be Illegal, The Original Beauty Bible, and Don’t Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me. Paula’s books have sold more than 2.5 million copies worldwide.

Her work as a nationally-recognized consumer expert for the cosmetics industry has led to repeat appearances on CNN, as well as programs such as Oprah, The Today Show, 20/20, Dateline NBC, The View, and Dr. Oz.

Paula’s Story: In Her Own Words

From the very beginning, my goal has been to help women find products that will give them the skin they’ve always wanted—whether you use my Paula’s Choice products that I developed and formulated or those from another brand. I have the unique distinction of being the only cosmetics company founder in the world who recommends products other than my own.

I created Paula’s Choice as a result of my own frustrations when I was a teenager trying to find products for my problem skin and then, later in life, for wrinkles and skin discolorations. My complexion was a mess and, like many of you, the skin-care products I used either didn’t help or made matters worse.

Paula’s Choice is a comprehensive collection of skin-care and select makeup products that meet my strict criterion for excellence based only on what published research shows is effective. My products are guaranteed to exceed your expectations.

I provide state-of-the-art formulas that are always fragrance-free, ecologically responsible, and never tested on animals. I invite you to let my years of research and acquired knowledge benefit your skin. With Paula’s Choice, healthy, youthful, radiant skin is a result you can count on!

In the early 1990s, Begoun began work with a team of cosmetic chemists to develop her own line of cosmetics and skin-care products. She claims that her products offer results based on published, peer-reviewed research and that her extensive research of the cosmetic industry provided her with the expertise necessary to develop these formulations. In 1995, Begoun began selling her products online. This has led some consumers to question the objectivity of her product reviews. As to counter to these concerns, Begoun claims that Paula’s Choice is one of the only companies that recommends products other than their own.

Begoun remains a consultant for dermatologists, plastic surgeons, major cosmetics companies, news and industry insiders. She positions herself as an internationally recognized authority and consumer advocate for the cosmetics and hair-care industries and routinely appears on news and talk shows, including CNN,  Oprah,  The Dr. Oz Show, and The View.

If you are looking for the latest information on product ingredients and safety these to links will take you for a journey that not only connect you to your power that is to choose what you pay for and what is in the products you consume, pretty powerful if you ask me, we wish for all of you to skim the milk sort of speak in the sense that what product companies tell you it may not be so much of the bottom line, and you the consumer have the right to know, don’t you think? so here we go.

Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me by Paula Begoun

This book helps women find products that make them look great without spending a fortune. From drugstores and home shopping to department stores and catalogs, Paula Begoun and her team review the hottest skin-care and makeup products major cosmetic and skin-care lines. Regardless of the price tags, there are good and bad products in almost every line and with the turn of a page, readers can get concise reviews and fast answers in this completely revised edition. A user-friendly rating system makes it easy to find items worth trying. Paula also includes skin care basics and tips on which ingredients to look for so you get the results you want.

The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

The all-new third edition of The Original Beauty Bible is Paula Begoun’s most comprehensive book yet. Exhaustively researched, this refreshingly honest guide cuts through marketing hype to educate consumers on all aspects of beauty, including how to assemble a state-of-the-art skin-care routine, choose a cosmetic surgeon, and apply makeup like a pro. It provides the latest research and information on every imaginable cosmetic innovation, with a special emphasis on skin-care ingredients, and explains the pros and cons of all types of cosmetic surgery and corrective procedures in an engaging, easy-to-understand style. Covering the most critical topics in beauty in a factual, no-holds-barred manner, and packed with money-saving tips, The Original Beauty Bible affirms Begoun’s reputation as “The Ralph Nader of Rouge.” For readers of all ages, it’s the ultimate guide to smart beauty.

Ingredient Dictionary from Paula’s Choice

Ratings according to Paula’s Choice

ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER

GOOD

Silicone-enhanced film-forming agent. Also, functions as a binding agent so products adhere better to skin. See film-forming agent

A large group of ingredients typically found in haircare products, but that also are widely used in skin care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and various copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. The film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers, but this almost always depends on the amount used; lower amounts generally are not problematic.

It creates the gloss for skin care, makeup and hair products

 ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER

GOOD

Is absorbent,adhesive, artificial nail builder,binder,emulsion stabilizer, film former, Hair fixative, suspending agent- nonsurfactant, viscosity increasing-aqueous, it gives the emollient feel.

What is the term ACTIVE INGREDIENT?

GOOD

Ingredient in a cosmetic, drug, or pharmaceutical product considered to have a pharmacological effect. In the case of cosmetics, the effect on the skin must be documented by scientific evaluation, approved by the FDA, and adhere to FDA regulations. In addition, the amount and exact function of each active ingredient must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and anti-acne ingredients such as sulfur and benzoyl peroxide. The FDA also specifies that the active ingredient list must be first on a product label. See inactive ingredient

ADENINE

GOOD

Component of DNA that carries genetic information to the cell. See DNA

Abbreviation for deoxyribonucleic acid. DNA is found in all cells. It is the primary component of genes—and genes are the means by which cells transmit hereditary characteristics. DNA is the basis for all genetic structure; its components include adenine (A), guanine (G), thymine (T), and cytostine (C). It is the mapping of these substances that makes up the genetic code of all human traits and cellular functions. DNA is also the genetic material that is required for all cellular division and growth. Including DNA in a skin-care product is pointless because it cannot in and of itself affect a cell’s genetic elements. The formation of DNA is a complex process within the cell that requires a multitude of proteins and enzymes for it to have an effect on the body’s genetic material. It is also doubtful that you would want to ever put anything on your skin that could affect genetic material, particularly via a cosmetic for which there are no safety or efficacy regulations. Beyond that, any successful attempt to affect what DNA does would potentially create a significant risk of cancer.

According to:http:http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/adenine#section=Pharmacology

Adenine (sometimes known as vitamin B4) combines with the sugar ribose to form adenosine, which in turn can be bonded with from one to three phosphoric acid units, yielding AMP, ADP and ATP . These adenine derivatives perform important functions in cellular metabolism. Adenine is one of four nitrogenous bases utilized in the synthesis of nucleic acids. A modified form of adenosine monophosphate (cyclic AMP) is an important secondary messenger in the propagation of many hormonal stimuli. Adenine is an integral part of the structure of many coenzymes. Adenosine (adenine with a ribose group) causes transient heart block in the AV node of the heart. In individuals suspected of suffering from a supraventricular tachycardia (SVT), adenosine is used to help identify the rhythm. Certain SVTs can be successfully terminated with adenosine.

ADIPIC ACID/NEOPENTYL GLYCOL/TRIMELLITIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER

GOOD

synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent

A Large group of ingredients typically found in haircare products, but that also are widely used in skin care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and various copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. The film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on the skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers, but this almost always depends on the amount used; lower amounts generally are not problematic.

Like Glycerine it binds and adds moisture.

ADVANCED GLYCATION END PRODUCT

POOR

Advanced glycation end products, also known as AGEs, are caused by the body’s major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, yet it also can bind strongly to proteins (the body’s fundamental building blocks) and form abnormal structures (AGEs) that progressively damage tissue elasticity. The glucose itself isn’t damaging, it’s what happens when glucose transforms into AGEs that’s the problem. Refined sugar from our diets is a major source of AGEs, and more research is revealing a diet high in sugar causes the body to age faster Wow! we knew that sugar was bad for are health now we know to what extent and that includes a high glycemic index so think about fast food!!! (Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2011, pages 438–444).

Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, USA, March 14, 2000, pages 2809–2813). In skin, this damage occurs to collagen and elastin, the chief ingredients responsible for skin’s firmness and ability to bounce back when stretched. AGEs also cause inflammation within the body, which is believed to play a widespread role in how we age and become more prone to disease.

The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing aminoguanidine and carnosine to be AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes, but many other substances are potential candidates as AGE-inhibitors as well.

One study examined over 92 substances and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine (Source: Molecular Cell Biology Research Communications, June 2000, pages 360–366). Carnosine, in particular, is considered a very good inhibitor of AGEs.

AGEs and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked (Sources: European Journal of Neuroscience, December 2001, page 1,961; and Neuroscience Letters, October 2001, pages 29–32), but none of this has been shown to have relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances when they are included in cosmetics.

It is possible in the future that skin-care products will be formulated with ingredients proven to effect the formation of AGEs when applied topically. For now, eating a low sugar diet rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients is the best approach.

AEROCARPUS SANTALINUS

POOR

See red sandalwood

Has a phytoestrogen component (Source: Phytochemistry, March 2000, pages 605–606), but can also be a skin irritant (Source: Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, page 69).

When used externally, Sandalwood oil or Sandalwood paste (made from mixing water with Sandalwood powder) has a calming, cooling effect on body and mind. It helps relieve fever and burns and stops excessive sweating. In general, it relieves Pitta dosha and helps balance the body after overexposure to the sun. The oil or the paste can help heal skin diseases such as infectious sores, ulcers, acne, and rashes. Sandalwood powder helps smooth and cool the skin and can be made into a paste, lotion or soap for cleansing, calming and hydrating sensitive or aging skin. Sandalwood acts as a disinfectant, diuretic, expectorant and sedative. It is bitter, sweet, astringent and cooling. Sandalwood balances the circulatory, digestive, respiratory and nervous systems. –

The Sultan of Mysore declared Sandalwood to be a royal tree in 1792. Every Sandalwood tree is still under the protection and ownership of the Indian government today, even when grown on private land. The individual who owns the land receives 75% of the proceeds in return for planting and protecting the tree until it reaches maturity. Due to an increased demand in medicines, perfumes, and cosmetics that contain Sandalwood oil, and due to the decreased availability as smugglers cut down trees and export them illegally, prices have skyrocketed in recent years. At this time it is illegal to export the wood from India, although the oil can be exported.

See more at: http://www.mapi.com/ayurvedic-knowledge/plants-spices-and-oils/sandalwood-is-sacred.html#gsc.tab=0

AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM

GOOD

See horse chestnut extract

May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Taken orally, it has been shown to reduce edema in the lower leg by improving the elastic tissue surrounding the veins.

From:http://www.herbwisdom.com/herb-horse-chestnut.html

Horse Chestnut Benefits

Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) is a traditional remedy for leg vein health. The tree is also commonly known as horse chestnut or conker tree. It tones and protects blood vessels and may be helpful in ankle edema related to poor venous return. Utilized extensively throughout Europe as an anti-inflammatory agent for a variety of conditions, in addition to being used for vascular problems. The plant is taken in small doses internally for the treatment of a wide range of venous diseases, including hardening of the arteries, varicose veins, phlebitis, leg ulcers, hemorrhoids, and frostbite.

Horse chestnut is an astringent, anti-inflammatory herb that helps to tone the vein walls which, when slack or distended, may become varicose, hemorrhoidal or otherwise problematic. The plant also reduces fluid retention by increasing the permeability of the capillaries and allowing the re-absorption of excess fluid back into the circulatory system.

The seeds are decongestant, expectorant, and tonic. They have been used in the treatment of rheumatism, neuralgia, and hemorrhoids. A compound of the powdered roots is analgesic and has been used to treat chest pains. Extracts of the seeds are the source of a saponin known as aescin, which has been shown to promote normal tone in the walls of the veins, thereby improving circulation through the veins and promoting the return of blood to the heart.

AGAR

GOOD

See algae

Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. In cosmetics, algae act as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants.

Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. Most of these are beneficial for skin, as emollients, anti-inflammatory agents, or antioxidants. However, claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are unsubstantiated.

Algae is not a critical ingredient in skin-care products. Although it does have a positive function.

According to:http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-80-agar.aspx?activeingredientid=80&activeingredientname=agar

Agar is a plant and one of the uses is for making medicine.

People take agar to lose weight, especially in Japan. In Japan, agar is called “kanten,” and it is the main ingredient in “the kanten plan” or “the kanten diet.”

Agar is also used to treat diabetes and constipation.

In dentistry, agar is used to make dental impressions.

In manufacturing processes, agar is used as an ingredient in emulsions, suspensions, gels, and certain suppositories.

 Here is how it works

Agar contains a gel-like substance that bulks up in the gut. This stimulates the intestines and creates a bowel movement. That’s why agar is commonly used as a laxative.

Agar’s bulking effect also explains its use for weight loss. Agar tends to make people feel full, so they might stop eating earlier than they otherwise would. Some people think this reaction will lead to weight loss. But so far, there is no reliable scientific evidence that supports this weight loss theory.

AGARICUS BISPORUS EXTRACT

GOOD

An extract of mushroom that is thought to help regulate skin cell production by inhibiting cell growth, particularly for use in psoriasis, but research in this regard is mixed (Sources: Free Radical Research, January 2006, pages 31-39; and British Journal of Dermatology, January 1999, pages 56-60). Internally, there is research showing it can inhibit the growth of breast cancer cells and colon cancer cells (Source: Cancer Research, October 1993, pages 4627-4632).

According to: http://www.medicalmushrooms.net/agaricus-bisporus-common-mushroom/

Agaricus Bisporus has substantial amounts of Vitamin D which is good for your health. Eating the mushroom raw is discouraged because of the presence of carcinogenic hydrazine derivatives, albeit in small quantities. These unhealthy derivatives are reduced significantly by cooking.

This mushroom contains Potassium and Sodium too. The body requires potassium in the processing of carbohydrates and proteins in different ways to build muscle. It also plays a role in how the heart works. It also regulates the acid-base and contributes to the overall health of the body. Apart from the Agaricus Bisporus mushroom, potassium is also in present in meats, fish, soy, and vegetables. Potassium is a necessity in the body and therefore its deficiency can cause different diseases. When potassium falls short, blood pressure slightly rises, the heart beats get abnormal and the body muscles feel weak.

Agaricus bisporus, more commonly known as the white button mushroom, is one of the oldest and most popular fungi in the Western diet. It is a regularly added to salads, stir-fries, pasta, sauces, soups, pies and breakfasts. It is cultivated around the world for culinary purposes. In addition to its own unique flavor, eating this mushroom may provide important health and nutrition benefits when made a regular part of the diet. History Human beings have been consuming white button mushrooms since Ancient times. According to Dr. Michael Murray and Dr. Joseph Pizzorno, authors of “The Encyclopedia of Healing Foods,” ancient Egyptians believed that the Agaricus bisporus species of mushrooms held the key to immortality, while Ancient Romans revered the mushroom as one of the foods of the gods. During the 1600s, the French began to cultivate Agaricus bisporus, using dark underground tunnels beneath Paris that are still used for mushroom growing today. Cultivation of mushrooms began in the United States during the 1800s.

In addition to the nutritional benefits of this mushroom, it may have useful medicinal properties that support health and well-being. In a study published in “BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine” in 2011, researchers studied the effects of Agaricus bisporus on human immune cells in vitro. Agaricus bisporus significantly stimulated immune activity, specifically cytokines and enzymes that are responsible for inflammation. Researchers concluded the medicinal value of Agaricus bisporus was likely due to the carbohydrate-based chemicals called mannogalactans. Because this research was performed in laboratory cells, more clinical research is required to confirm the effects of these mushrooms in humans. However, eating Agaricus bisporus regularly may have a health effect on your immune defenses.

See more at:http://www.livestrong.com/article/509382-facts-about-agaricus-bisporus/

AGE SPOTS

AVERAGE

Once referred to as liver spots, these brown skin discolorations are also not related to age, any more than they are to the liver. The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the characteristic small ones on the hands, arms, chest and face are caused by sun damage. These are possible  indications of precancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes.

Age spots — also called liver spots and solar lentigines — are flat tan, brown or black spots. They vary in size and usually appear on the face, hands, shoulders and arms — areas most exposed to the sun.

According to:http://www.healthline.com/health/age-spots#Causes2

What Causes Age Spots?

Age spots are the result of an excess production of melanin, or skin pigment. Doctors don’t always know why age spots develop. Skin aging, sun exposure, or other forms of ultraviolet (UV) light exposure, such as tanning beds, are all possible causes. You’re most likely to develop age spots on the areas of your skin that receive the most sun exposure, including:

•your face

•the back of your hands

•your shoulders

•your upper back

•your forearms

AGRIMONIA EUPATORIA LEAF EXTRACT

AVERAGE

Research shows this plant extract inhibits the hepatitis b virus and has antioxidant properties. Whether or not it has a benefit when applied topically is not known. There is no research showing it to be effective for cellulite. (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, April 2005, pages 355-358 and Journal of Ethnopharmacology, January 2005, pages 145-150)

According to:http://www.medicalhealthguide.com/herb/agrimony.htm we highly recommend you to check the site is amazing information on studies of this plant

Scientific Name: Agrimonia Eupatoria (LINN.)

Other Names: Agrimony, Agrimone, Agrimonia, Agrimonia eupatoria, Aigremoine, Church Steeples, Cockeburr, Cocklebur, Da Hua Long Ya Cao

Agrimonia, (Agrimonia Eupatoria) commonly called as agrimony, is a flowering plant of the rose family,  native to the temperate regions of Northern America, Europe, and Asia. Its name agrimony came from the Greek word Agermone meaning healing to the eyes and Eupatoria from  Mithridates Eupator, a Pontus king famous for having invented a complex ‘universal antidote’ against poisoning.  Thus agrimony from whence its name was derived, has long been valued as an important herbal medicine through the ages. Agrimony was once considered a panacea or “all-heal” for illnesses.

Early Greeks used agrimony for the treatment of eye disorders and brewed leaves and seeds are used to treat stomach disorders such as diarrhea and irritable bowel movement.

Agrimony concoction is also used in ancient Greece for the treatment of kidney, liver and gall bladder problems.

During the middle ages, agrimony was used to treat wounds to promote healing.

In Austria, agrimony was used to treat respiratory ailments, liver, kidney and bile problems.

In ancient Northern Europe, it was used as an antidote for poison and snake bites.

In Northern America,  Indians used agrimony for fever, ague, and gastrointestinal problems.

Agrimony was used as an astringent to treat skin eruptions, sores, pimples, and wounds. A decoction is mixed to the bath to wash the skin.

Extract from agrimony mixed with oil was used to treat gout and arthritis. A decoction is likewise drunk with wine is said to relieve the symptoms.

Culpeper, a noted English herbalist in mid- 17th century wrote about agrimony being used as a healing herb both for external and inward wounds. Agrimony mixed in baths was used to heal skin wounds and sores while a decoction of agrimony taken internally, sometimes with wine may heal bruises, hurts, and discomfort.

Agrimony is also used as a gargle to improve bad breath, cure sore throat and drunk to relieve a cough.

Herbalists from the 17th century including John Gerard recommended the use of agrimony for the treatment of jaundice or diseases of the liver.

Antibacterial And Free Radical Scavenging Activity Of The Seeds Of Agrimonia Eupatoria.

In a study done in Phytopharmaceutical Research Laboratory, School of Pharmacy, The Robert Gordon University, Schoolhill, Aberdeen, Scotland, UK, the n-Hexane, dichloromethane and methanol extracts of the seeds of Agrimonia eupatoria have been assessed for antibacterial and free radical scavenging activity.

AHA

BEST

Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk, but 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%), AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations greater than 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these ingredients can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together.

The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin.

AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content, all of which lead to younger-looking skin.

There is a vast amount of research that substantially describes how the aging process affects the skin and that demonstrates that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acids. Because AHAs exfoliate sun damaged cells from the surface of the skin, and because this layer imparts some minimal sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity when using an AHA. However, wearing a sunscreen daily eliminates this risk.

Note: AHAs are of little benefit when added to rinse-off products, as their contact with skin is too brief for them to function as exfoliants or absorb into the skin.

AHNFELTIA CONCINNA EXTRACT

GOOD

Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. In cosmetics, algae act as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants. For example, the phycocyanin present in blue-green algae has been suspected of allergenicity and of causing dermatitis on the basis of patch tests.

Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. Most of these are beneficial for skin, as emollients, anti-inflammatory agents, or antioxidants. However, claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are unsubstantiated.

Algae is not a critical ingredient in skin-care products. Although it does have a positive function, it isn’t the miracle ingredient it’s often made out to be.

AJUGA TURKESTANICA EXTRACT

AVERAGE

The only research about this plant indicates that it may have anabolic steroid properties (Source: Eksperimental’naya i Klinicheskaya Farmakologiya [from a Russian scientific journal], May 1997, pages 41–44). There is no other research showing this to be of benefit for skin.

According to:http://www.naturalcompounds.org/Featured-Extracts/Ajuga-turkestanica.html

Traditional Use and Activity

A plant is used in the treatment of heart disease, muscle aches, and stomach problems. Plant extracts and isolated compounds possess a broad spectrum of biological, pharmacological and medicinal properties, such as anabolic, analgesic, antibacterial, antiestrogenic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antihypertensive, antileukemic, antimalarial, antimycobacterial, antioxidant, antipyretic, cardiotonic, cytotoxic, hypoglycemic, and vasorelaxing activity. The extract is offered for stimulation of aquaporins – for human skin hydration in cosmetology. The plant has hepatoprotective properties.

ALANINE

GOOD

See amino acid

Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body, such as alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. Some of these amino acids can be synthesized by the body; others (known as essential amino acids) must be obtained from protein in the diet.

In skincare products, amino acids act as water-binding agents, and some have antioxidant properties and wound-healing abilities as well.  Amino acids can be combined with other ingredients that have cell-communicating ability to work in unison to fight wrinkles and other signs of aging.

ALARIA ESCULENTA

GOOD

Alaria esculenta is an edible seaweed, also known as dabberlocks or badderlocks, or winged kelp. It is a traditional food along the coasts of the far north Atlantic Ocean. It may be eaten fresh or cooked in Greenland, Iceland, Scotland, and Ireland. It is the only one of twelve species of Alaria to occur in both Ireland and in the Great Britain.

According to:http://www.aubrey-organics.com/custom.aspx?id=91

Aubrey® has always been the leading manufacturer of natural skin care products. Although there are many petrochemical-laden anti-aging products on the market today, Aubrey® is committed to educating the public on healthy, natural alternatives. Alaria Esculenta, a type of nutrient-rich kelp, has many anti-aging and firming properties. Alaria Esculenta grows mainly in the Northern Atlantic. It is known for its long, golden-brown fronds, and its unique ability to withstand harsh waves. It is found just beneath the surface of the water and is known around the North Atlantic region for its nutritional value.

Alaria Esculenta extract is a clinically proven, effective ingredient for use in natural anti-aging products, and can be found in Aubrey®’s Revitalizing Night Crème and Revitalizing Moisturizer.

ALBUMIN

POOR

Found in egg white, and can leave a film over the skin. It can constrict skin temporarily, which can make it look smoother temporarily, but it can also cause irritation and is not helpful for skin.

According to:https:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albumin

The albumins (formed from Latin: albumen “(egg) white; dried egg white”) are a family of globular proteins, the most common of which are the serum albumins. All the proteins of the albumin family are water-soluble, moderately soluble in concentrated salt solutions, and experience heat denaturation. Albumins are commonly found in blood plasma and differ from other blood proteins in that they are not glycosylated. Substances containing albumins, such as egg white, are called albuminoids.

A number of blood transport proteins are evolutionarily related, including serum albumin, alpha-fetoprotein, vitamin D-binding protein and afamin

By Donna Swartzendruber, MSN, RN, CNN

Albumin is the most common protein found in the blood. It provides the body with the protein needed to both maintain growth and repair tissues.

ALCHEMILLA VULGARIS

POOR

Plant with antimicrobial properties. Its high tannin content can cause skin irritation (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, July 2000, pages 307–313).

According to:http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-654-alchemilla.aspx?activeingredientid=654&activeingredientname=alchemilla

Alchemilla is a herb. The parts that grow above the ground are used to make medicine.

Alchemilla is used for stomach problems, mild diarrhea, diabetes, water retention, swelling (inflammation), and muscle spasms. Some people use it as a gargle for sore mouth and throat.

Women use alchemilla for heavy or painful menstrual periods or for symptoms of menopause.

Some people apply alchemilla directly to the skin to stop bleeding; improve wound healing; or treat ulcers, eczema, or skin rashes.

ALCLOXA

POOR

More technically known as aluminum chlorhydroxy allantoinate, alcloxa has constricting properties that can be irritating for skin.

ALCOHOL

AVERAGE

“Alcohol,” the term, refers to a group of organic compounds with a vast range of forms and uses, in cosmetics and in other areas. For skin, there are good alcohols and bad alcohols, corresponding roughly to high-molecular-weight alcohols and low-molecular-weight alcohols, respectively, as we explain below. When fats and oils are chemically reduced, they become less dense fatty alcohols (like cetyl alcohol), which can have emollient properties or act as detergent cleansing agents. There also are benign forms, including glycols, which are used as humectants to help deliver ingredients into the skin.

Alcohols with low molecular weights—the bad-for-skin alcohols—can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skincare products are ethanol or ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, methanol, isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol, and benzyl alcohol (when one or more of these are listed among the main ingredients; tiny amounts aren’t a problem).

In addition to being drying and irritating, these alcohols can generate free-radical damage and disrupt skin’s protective barrier. Alcohol helps ingredients like retinol and vitamin C penetrate into the skin more effectively, but it does that by breaking down the skin’s barrier—destroying the very substances that keep your skin healthy over the long term.

Alcohol immediately harms the skin and starts a chain reaction of damage that continues long after it has evaporated. A 2003 study published in the Journal of Hospital Infection found that with regular exposure to alcohol-based products, cleansing becomes a damaging ordeal—skin is no longer able to keep water and cleansing agents from penetrating into it, thus further eroding the skin’s barrier.

There is actually a significant amount of research showing denatured alcohol (ethanol) causes free-radical damage in skin even at low levels. Small amounts of alcohol on skin cells in lab settings (about 3%, but keep in mind skincare products use amounts ranging from 5% to 60% or greater) over the course of two days increased cell death by 26%. It also destroyed the substances in cells that reduce inflammation and defend against free radicals, and actually caused more free-radical damage.

If that weren’t bad enough, exposure to alcohol causes skin cells to self-destruct. The research also showed that these destructive, aging effects on skin cells increased the longer the exposure to alcohol; that is, two days of exposure was dramatically more harmful than one day, and that is only a 3% concentration.

When alcohol ingredients are at the top of an ingredient list, they are problematic for all skin types; when they are near the bottom of an ingredient list, they aren’t present in a high enough concentration to be considered a problem for skin.

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer (2oz) brings clarity to oily, acne-prone skin with powerful probiotics that remove acne-causing dirt, debris, oil, and bacteria while restoring balance to the skin for a long-lasting clear complexion.

Eminence Organics Calm Skin Starter Set

he Eminence Organic Calm Skin Starter Set is the perfect way try the amazing brightening products of Eminence Organics. Including a one month supply of the brightening cleanser, moisturizer, masque, and serum, this skin care kit has everything you need to soothe irritated skin and reduce sensitivity.

ReFa O STYLE

Using drainage pro movement, ReFa O Style increases the vitality and energy of the skin for improved vibrancy and a more radiant complexion.

YoungBlood Mineral Primer

Lightweight, quickly absorbing, and translucent, Youngblood Mineral Primer primes and treats your skin for beautiful makeup application and enhanced dermatologic health.

Copper Bodum Chambord Milk Frother

Designed by Bodum, this electricity-free frother creates café-style foam to top your favorite coffee drinks and hot cocoas. Fill the glass with cold milk and use the plunger to double the volume of milk froth in just seconds, or heat the carafe in the microwave to create hot foam.

Bodum Chambord Copper 8-Cup French Press Coffee Maker

An elegant new version of the original French press designed by Bodum in the 1950’s, our Chambord coffee maker is still the simplest and best way to brew the perfect cup of coffee. Its sophisticated design features a shiny copper-plated steel frame and lid.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Hello and welcome to week 243. Thank you for all your likes and visits we appreciate your time and the attention that you invest in the post. It is yours as much as ours, please share and like if you do so other people can benefit from it also, a big thank you again for your faithful support from all of us at Isabel’s Beauty Blog.

Do you know what Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) means? We are all exposed to many products in the market that have AHA in them, but for the most part, most people don’t know what this means. The name refers to a class of chemical compounds that consist of a carboxylic acid substituted with a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon WOW! that is a lot of names, isn’t it ? They may be either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHA’s are well known for their use in the cosmetics industry. They are often found in products implying  to reduce creases and flaws  or the signs of mature skin and improve the overall look and feel of the skin by basically activating the body’s response to the AHA’s. In other words aiding the bodies natural resources to renew the skin is a lot like what dermabrasion and Skin resurfacing do. As a matter of fact, it is a form of skin resurfacing.

Here in our blog post what we researched will explain to a very large extent what these chemical compounds do and how to use them, their qualities and their drawbacks when not used properly.

According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_hydroxy_acid

A-Hydroxy acids, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), They may be either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHAs are well known for their use in the cosmetics industry. They are also used as chemical peels available in a dermatologist’s office, beauty, and health spas and in home kits, which usually contain a much lower concentration of around 4%. Although there is evidence for their effectiveness,cosmetic manufacturers have made exaggerated claims of performance and oftentimes the source AHA is not of real quality or the right concentration  Many well-known (AHAS) α-hydroxy acids are useful building blocks in organic synthesis: the most common and simple are glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandolin acid.You can check the pink links for the complete definition of the different acids.

Cosmetic applications

Understanding skin structure and cutaneous aging and oxidation are helpful to the description of the topical action of  alpha hydroxy acids( AHAs). Human skin has two principal components, the avascular epidermis, and the underlying vascular dermis.  Natural Cutaneous aging, while having epidermal concomitants, seems to involve primarily the dermis and is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors and that is how is determined by science at this time.

AHAs are a group of organic carboxylic compounds. AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products including glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine) so as you see these are very reliable sources. For any topical compound to be effective, including AHA, it must penetrate into the skin where it can act on living cells so with that said AHA’s are great used with the Needle pen or other mechanical exfoliation procedures that penetrate the first layer of the Skin we will talk about the process further in the Post. Bioavailability (influenced primarily by small molecular size) is an important factor in a compound’s ability to penetrate the top layer of the skin. Glycolic acid, having the smallest molecular size, is the AHA with the greatest bioavailability and penetrates the skin most easily; this largely accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic applications, is important to do research and check the percentage and what the other ingredients are that can counter act the potency and effectiveness of the AHA’s work, when in doubt do a patch test or consult your beauty expert or if you happend to have more serious issues with your skin please consult your Dermatologist before using AHA’s.

Natural sources of AHA’s

Epidermal effect

AHA’s have a profound effect on keratinization; which is clinically detectable by the formation of a new stratum corneum. It appears that AHAs modulate this formation through diminished cellular cohesion between corneocytes at the lowest levels of the stratum corneum.

Keratin

kɛrətɪn  is a family of fibrous structural proteins. Keratin is the protein that protects epithelial cells from damage or stress that has potential to kill the cell. It is the key structural material making up the outer layer of human skin. It is the key structural component of hair and nails, and it provides the necessary strength and toughness for masticatory organs, such as the tongue and the hard palate, is pretty strong!. Keratin monomers assemble into bundles to form intermediate filaments, which are tough and form strong unmineralized tissues found in reptiles, birds, amphibians, and mammals, Wow!. The only other biological matter known to approximate the toughness of keratinized tissue is chitin.

Chitin: A tough, semitransparent substance that is the main component of the exoskeletons of arthropods, such as the shells of crustaceans and the outer coverings of insects. Chitin is also found in the cell walls of certain fungi and algae.

Keratin filaments are abundant in keratinocytes in the cornified layer of the epidermis; these are cells which have undergone keratinization.

•Like the α-keratins in the hair (including wool), horns, nails, claws and hooves of mammals.

•In the harder β-keratins found in nails and in the scales and claws of reptiles, their shells (Testudines, such as tortoise, turtle, terrapin), and in the feathers, beaks, claws of birds and quills of porcupines.

Skin Structure and function

Stratum corneum

The stratum corneum  Latin for ‘horny layer’ is the outermost layer of the epidermis, consisting for the most part of dead cells (corneocytes). This layer is composed of 15-20 layers of flattened cells with no nuclei and cell organelles.,as per wikipedia. The stratum corneum is composed of three lipid components: ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

The purpose of the stratum corneum is to form a barrier to protect underlying tissue from infection, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress so consequently the layer that is most exposed to exterior damage and oxidation and other common intruders. Desquamation, the process of cell shedding from the surface of the stratum corneum, balances proliferating keratinocytes that form in the stratum basale. These cells migrate through the epidermis towards the surface in a journey that takes in general approximately fourteen days, we should keep in mind that everybody is different so this count is a general estimate.

During cornification, the process whereby living keratinocytes are transformed into non-living corneocytes, the cell membrane is replaced by a layer of ceramides which become covalently linked to an envelope of structural proteins (the cornified envelope) did you know that? I just learned it myself. This complex surrounds cells in the stratum corneum and contributes to the skin’s barrier function.

Dermal effects

AHAs with greater bioavailability appear to have deeper dermal effects. Glycolic acid, lactic acid,, and citric acid, on topical application to photodamaged skin, have been shown to produce increased amounts of mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin thickness without detectable inflammation, as monitored by skin biopsies.

AHAs are derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk, but 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. For most part in low concentrations (less than 3%) Drs and licensed estheticians may use different strenghts and they are train to recognize the different applications of it,is of great importance to fallow instructions so you don’t harm your self. AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations greater than 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4 ( crucial to test or know the PH you can do this action with a PH strip abaliavle in any drugstore), these ingredients can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together.(Please follow instructions and remember more is not necessary better and do a patch test)

 The “glue”per say,that hold together the cells of the skin and the other epithelial tissues of the body are the adherens junctions.

The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly.

A word of caution: 

 AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation so is important to do a patch test and consult your health provider. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content, all of which lead to radiant healthy skin.

There is a vast amount of research that substantially describes how the oxidation, stress and maturing process affects skin and demonstrates that many of the unwanted changes can be improved and many times erase by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acids. Because AHAs exfoliate sun damaged cells from the surface of skin, and because this layer imparts some minimal sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity when using an AHA. However, wearing a sunscreen daily eliminates this risk and creates protective shield, read the ingredients on your Sun screen we prefer Organic.

Tip: AHAs are of little benefit when added to rinse-off products, as their contact with skin is too brief for them to function as exfoliants or absorb into the skin in such a small amount of time.

from: http://dermatology.about.com/cs/skincareproducts/a/aha_2.htm

Some guidelines to consider  when trying to decide which alpha hydroxy acid formulation to use:

It is best to pick one product that contains the proper formulation of alpha hydroxy acid to use as your exfoliant, and then choose other skin care products or cosmetics that don’t contain alpha hydroxy acids to reduce the risk of skin irritation.

Using an alpha hydroxy acid in a moisturizer base may be the best combination of products T the same time a serum before the moisturizer is another great source.

Cleansers  that containing alpha hydroxy acids are not very effective because the alpha hydroxy acid must be absorbed into the skin to work. Cleansers are washed off before this absorption occurs doing so it defeats the purpose.

At this time there are no effective products that combine alpha hydroxy acid and sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make the alpha hydroxy acid effective, like we say before PH is very important in this.

Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an alpha hydroxy acid product. The sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 15 for UVB protection and contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide for UVA protection.

Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4.

Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide concentration information on the label so this is a crucial information that you can research. As a general rule of thumb, having the alpha hydroxy acid listed as the second or third ingredient on the list makes it more likely it contains the proper concentration.

The only way to know for sure the pH of a product is to test with a pH strip. Paula Begoun has done this in her skin care product reviews found in her book “Don’t go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.” and her review site her you will find one of the most comprehensive reviews  available.

http://www.paulaschoice.com/beautypedia-skin-care-reviews?N=4294966879+4294966153&Nr=AND%28Site%3Abeautypedia%2CLocale%3Aen_US%29

We recommend her AHA’s she truly does her homework with a very fine tooth comb.

Alpha hydroxy acid refers to a group of natural acids added to skin care products and recommended by dermatologists as a treatment for various skin problems including sun damaged and aging skin. There are several kinds of alpha hydroxy acids. They include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and mandelic acid, which are derived from natural sources such as sugar cane, milk, grapes and citrus fruits. Glycolic acid, from sugar cane, and lactic acid, from sour milk, are the most common alpha hydroxy acids used in skin products because they penetrate skin the best.

In skin care products research shows that alpha hydroxy acids are effective for treating signs of skin aging. The outermost layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum is made up of skin cells called keratinocytes that are sloughed off  meaning we shed it regularly to reveal new cells underneath and that looks and fells and looks like new skin. With maturing, this process slows down on people some more than others, causing skin to look dull, dry and lifeless . Alpha hydroxy acids help to speed up this process by dissolving the glue-like substance between the cells so that they’re shed more easily, pretty amazing if you ask me. This increased rate of sloughing, called desquamation, thins out the outer layer of the skin so that it reflects light better and looks more radiant and healthy.

Research shows that alpha hydroxy acids help even out skin pigmentation and improve skin texture. With regular use of these AHAs, skin feels smoother and looks more healthy and new baby skin like. There’s also evidence that alpha hydroxy acids boost production of collagen, a protein in the dermis that gives skin support and its ability to resist wrinkling and sagging aside from the evidence of oxidation. Alpha hydroxy acids are available in anti-aging skin care products at concentrations of 5% of 10% for home use.

Dermatologists and health care professionals use alpha hydroxy concentrations of 50% to 70% to do superficial chemical peels or “lunchtime peels.” These peels provide faster improvements in skin appearance and texture, but they have the greatest benefits when they’re done as a series a few weeks apart. These peels cause moderate amounts of skin redness, irritation and burning and give the face a flushed appearance that may last for several days.

So as you can see it is not always necessary to get a chemical peel to get results from alpha hydroxy acids. Lower concentrations of these acids available in skin care products for home use have skin revitalizing benefits when they’re used regularly over several months the minimum being two months at least. Alpha hydroxy acids also function as humectants, drawing water from the environment to keep skin moist so there we can use nature to help the results. Lactic acid is a particularly effective humectant and moisturizer.

Alpha hydroxy acids are also effective for treating acne, although another type of weak acid called beta hydroxy acids are a better choice for treating acne-prone skin more on that coming up in the Post for Acne. The reason for this is because beta hydroxy acids are lipid soluble. This means they’re better able to penetrate clogged sebaceous glands and exfoliate the dead skin cells inside that cause clogged pores and acne bumps better than other acids. Beta hydroxy acids are best for acne-prone skin, while alpha hydroxy acids are a better choice for rough, sun-damaged skin and that is the difference .

Keep in mind once again we want to reiterate who uses alpha hydroxy acids for facial rejuvenation and restoring radiance should always wear a sunblock for sun protection. Since alpha hydroxy acids thin the stratum corneum, they make skin more susceptible to sun damage so defeating the purpose in the first place in using AHAs, so we recommend starting at Fall and Winter when we don’t expose are selves to so much outdoor activities. Fortunately, a sunscreen with a high SPF (30 or greater) that blocks UVA and UVB rays, a hat and sunglasses provides some degree of protection against ultraviolet light.

Alpha hydroxy acids appear to be safe, but they can cause skin irritation, especially during the first few weeks, so remember more is not better let your Skin climate to it slowly and always do a patch test. The degree of irritation varies with the concentration of the acid and the vehicle it’s suspended in. People with sensitive skin may have more pronounced skin irritation sometimes when using alpha hydroxyl acids and will benefit by using a lower concentration or apply the product every other day to reduce irritation bellow we are sharing products that can be use after the application of the AHAs to calm the skin down. and be patient. It takes time to see results in certain skins again everyone is different, that is way the term individual .

Tamarind 

This tangy tropical fruit is a stockpile of essential antioxidants,  AHAs, flavanoids and not to mention vitamin C and A. Because of its rich composition, this fruit is capable of fighting fight against the formation of free radicals. Apart from taking it as dietary supplement, when tamarind is applied on skin, it helps in reducing irritation and inflammation. Besides, it also lightens the skin, by reducing dark spots and pigmentation.

Most of you know that tamarind is used for most part in culinary purposes, but it may be new for you to hear that it can do wonders for your skin on topical skin application. Yes and indeed its an amazing home remedy for making the skin glow. On regular basis use, it can lighten the skin and remove dark spots, blemishes and nourish the skin in many ways. This is probably because of the high tartaric, citric , malic acid levels present in it. It is probably a fruit with highest content of tartaric acid on earth!!!! how about that great peace of knowledge .

Tartaric acid is well known to the beauty and cosmetic and skin care industry. It is a most effective skin care ingredient used in many moisturizers, skin toners, shampoos, hair conditioners, sun protection products and anti-aging treatments. This alphahydroxy acid is a weak kind of acids just like the glycolic acid, with great exfoliating properties. Tartaric acid stimulates the collagen production in the dermal layer of the skin.

Immediate lightening pack

Take this as a thumb rule. Never use raw tamarind as it may irritate your skin. Have a look at the procedure –

• First bring the mixture to a boil  – For face pack, you can take around 30 grams of tamarind, which is sufficient and bring it to a boil and turn it down in 100 ml of water simmer for about 5 t0 7 minutes
•  After a few minutes, remove it from the flame, cool it and extract the pulp from it
• Collect it in a bowl – Now take a teaspoon of the prepared pulpy collected in the bowl
• Add ½ a teaspoon of turmeric powder in it and mix well
• Form a smooth paste and apply on the face
• Leave it for 20 minutes and rinse off with warm water do not rub the AHA’s are enough to exfoliate the skin.

Fast results for bleaching

Did you know tamarind is an amazing natural bleach agent to use on skin? and you can prepare this homemade tamarind bleaching agent, which contains all the natural lightening agents you need to ease spots. This face pack will help in removing, dark patches and pigmentation. Tamarind also helps to lighten skin tone, which is one of the major roles. Here’s tis how to prepare

•  Follow the above 2 steps –Bring the Tamarind to a boil turn it down and simmer, extract the pulp  with a sanitized spoon
•  Take a teaspoon of the prepared pulp in a bowl
•  Add lemon – Into it add a teaspoon of lemon juice
•  Then add a teaspoon of honey and mix well to form a smooth paste
• Apply all over the face and keep for 15 minutes
• Rinse off with warm water.

Face scrub

Since this tropical fruit contains high natural fruit acids, which help in removing impurities and dead cells, tamarind face pack can also be used as scrub. This prepared face scrub will give you a polished skin, as it contains AHA (alpha- hydroxy acids) which acts as an exfoliator.

• Prepare pulp – Follow the above mentioned procedure to extract pulp
• Add salt – In the pulp, a teaspoon of sugar. This acts as an exfoliator, as it will smoothly remove oil and debris from the skin great for oily skin.
• Add curd/cream or sour cream this adds up more AHA’s to the mix
• Now add a teaspoon of curd/cream. If your skin is oily then add curd. And if you have normal to dry skin use cream
• Gently scrub – Mix well to form a smooth paste and gently scrub in circular motion and leave on for 10 minutes and proceed to rinse off with warm water, be gentle is a lot of exfoliation going on with just the mask, you want to avoid irritating your skin.

6 natural sources of alpha hydroxy acids

from: http://www.vintageamanda.com/2014/07/6-natural-ahas-smoother-skin/

Lemons + Grapefruit – Lemons and grapefruit have some of the  the strongest source of natural AHA’s in this list.  In fact, in several of my old recipe books, it suggests applying lemon juice to the skin to lighten discolorations (for example, as a natural melasma treatment) and uneven skin tone.  Be careful when applying lemon or grapefruit juice to your skin – and listen to what your body is telling you!  I’ve experimented with these myself, and definitely felt the tingle! when in doubt do a patch test.  You can apply the juice directly, or after juicing a lemon or grapefruit to use in cooking, simply rub the pulpy peel on your face (avoiding the eye area!)  Citrus fruits in particular make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so please wear a sunscreen after using this treatment!

Papaya – Papaya is a delicious and effective exfoliating treat for the face.  Of course you can crush papaya and apply to your face like a mask, but again I like to eat the papaya, and then rub the inner peel (with a little of the flesh attached) on my face.

Pineapple – Pineapple is another great tropical exfoliating treat.  I find the peel a bit scratchy to apply directly, so I like to crush or blend fresh pineapple and apply the juice as a mask.

Tomato – It’s not just tropical fruits that contain AHA’s, you can use the inside of tomatoes as a natural anti-aging mask.  I like to use the seed pulp in the center (so you can eat the rest of the tomato in your salad!)

Plain Yogurt – Yogurt contains lactic acid which is a natural AHA.  I like to use organic, full-fat, plain yogurt for facial treatments.  Simply apply to your skin, or mix with one of the fruits above and then apply to make a fruit smoothie anti-aging mask (and throw some in a blender to drink while you’re at it!)

– See more at: http://www.livestrong.com/article/90116-foods-containing-alpha-hydroxy-acid/#sthash.EjLYyFH1.dpuf

Fruit-based Homemade Glycolic Acid Peel Recipe

from: http://perfectpeels.com/so-you-want-to-do-your-own-glycolic-acid-chemical-peels/

Ingredients:

• Pineapple

• Papaya

• Plain, unflavored gelatin

• Honey (optional)

Step 1:

This type of glycolic acid peel is like making a smoothie. Use the sharp knife to peel the pineapple and the papaya and cut out chunks of both fruits to fill 1 cup. Put these into a blender and pulse or puree until smooth or until the mixture achieves a creamy consistency.

Step 2:

Put the blended fruit puree into a small bowl then stir in 2 tbsp. of unflavored gelatin to the mixture. The gelatin serves two purposes. One, it will hold the mixture together to form a mask-like mixture, as opposed to having the puree slip and slide all over, thus making a mess; and two, it will provide collagen to the skin, which improves elasticity, helping wrinkles and large pores disappear.

Step 3:

You can also opt to add 1 tsp. of honey to the mixture. The honey will soothe the skin and will replenish the moisture lost during the peeling process.

Step 4:

Heat the mixture on low for a minute or less, or until the gelatin dissolves. Afterwards you will have to refrigerate the mixture until the gelatin becomes slightly firm.

Step 5:

When the mixture has set, you can take it out of the refrigerator and apply it onto your face. Use your fingers, but make sure they’re clean! Remember to avoid the eye and mouth areas.

Step 6:

Let it settle on your skin for 10-15 minutes, as you can feel the tightening and rejuvenating effect.

Step 7:

After 15 minutes, you can gently peel off the mask from your face. Check your face in the mirror—you can already see the results!

Step 8:

You could top it all off with some moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated, but remember to put only a thin layer, because you wouldn’t want your pores clogged.

Yogurt & Oatmeal mask 

Ingredients: 2 tbsp. plain yogurt; 1 tbsp. oatmeal; 1 tbsp honey

Yogurt contains lactic acid (an alpha-hydroxy acid) and a number of nutrients that may mildly stimulate collagen production in the skin. Oatmeal and honey act as moisturizers.

Preparation: Simply mix ingredients together to form a paste. To avoid clumps, you may grind oatmeal into a powder (using a coffee grinder, for instance) before mixing it with other ingredients.

Usage: Wash your face. Massage face with the paste in a circular motion. Keep on for a minute or two then rinse off

Yogurt and aloe healing mask 

Ingredients: 1/2 cup plain yogurt; 2 tbsp aloe gel (or a fresh aloe leaf)

Yogurt contains lactic acid (an alpha-hydroxy acid) and a number of nutrients that may mildly stimulate collagen production in the skin. Aloe is a good moisturizer, and contains anti-inflammatory substances. This masque is good for irritated, sensitive skin.

Preparation: Simply mix ingredients together to form a paste. (Aloe gel can be purchased in a health food store. Alternatively, you can take a fresh aloe leaf, remove the skin and mash the pulp.

Usage: Wash your face. Massage face with the paste in a circular motion. Keep on for a minute or two then rinse off.

from: http://www.healthboards.com/boards/acne/308494-diy-serious-skin-care-peel-chemical-acid-aha-peeling.html

Ilike Organic Skin Care AHA Fruit Peel

Ilike Organic Skin Care Botanical AHA Fruit Peel is a skin regenerating, botanical peel that removes dead skin cells and impurities from the skin while nourishing the skin with vitamins and moisture.

Ilike Organic Skin Care Yogurt Power Peel

Ilike Organic Skin Care Yogurt Power Peel is a powerful exfoliating treatment that refines the skin’s surface and gives the skin a radiant glow.

Eminence Organics Soothing Chamomile Tonique

You’ll love the way Eminence Organics Soothing Chamomile Tonique (4.2oz) feels when the refreshing mist hits your face! Perfect as a daily soothing toner or pairs with more invasive dermatologic procedures, this facial treatment calms irritated skin and promotes the healing process.

Eminence Organics Firm Skin Acai Exfoliating Peel

Deeply hydrate and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with this active, exfoliating peel solution.